• Posted 12/19/2024.
    =====================

    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Temp Gun

mgoblue347

mgoblue347

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Anyone have any that they like, work well for them, little margin of error?

I just bought one from home depot and couldn't be more disappointed with it. The thing is way off.
 
Also anybody recommend any humidity units with probes that they've ordered online that work well?

Thanks!
 
I use the pro exotics pe-1 temp gun.

It's the only one I've owned. It works great for me. i think it's around $25...
 
I don't use them. As long as snakes have good sheds, all is well. I do however have a base unit thermometer in my snake room to keep an eye on how the room humidifier is doing. That unit is a Honeywell, but they no longer make it.
 
My thermometer I am using now tells me my room temps, I was more referring to a unit with a probe to go in my egg box in the incubator.
 
Yes I did see that yesterday, that discussion is more about wireless thermometers tho. I am looking to see what other people are using for humidity gauges/probes in their incubator.
 
Harbor Frieght has a great temp gun that can be found on sale for $20-25. It is very comparable to the higher end readers so its a debatable topic. One thing that can't be debated, you should always have more than one way to read temps in case one device is off.
 
Let me see what mine are when I'm in the room tomorrow. I forget the name but they are awesome. Temp and humidity in one with probe. Uses double a. 3 ft probe lead wire. Humidity doesn't max out at 90% it reads 0-100 in humidity and the +/- on both temp and humidity are very good.
 
Here's the temp gun I use but it's kind of expensive but is very accurate and reads in increments of a degree.

http://www.instrumart.com/products/2270/raytek-raynger-st20-infrared-thermometer

For air temperature I use this to know how off my digital thermometers are working.

http://www.amazon.com/H-B-20720T-Liquid-In-Glass-Verification-Thermometer/dp/B00551PYAA

I know both may be a bit overkill but they're very accurate.

http://www.amazon.com/H-B-20720T-Liquid-In-Glass-Verification-Thermometer/dp/B00551PYAA


To read relative humidity I have a calibrated precision hygrometer that I purchased from Thermo Scientific years ago which I found a huge difference in reading from the cheap ones I purchased at Wal Mart which were the best they stocked.
 
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i'd love to know a good brand of hygrometer with a probe too. fyi don't buy the big apple herp one, wildly inaccurate and not even steady in its inaccuracy which is the most annoying part. It's a good 50 percent off from the actual humidity, egg box has condensation everywhere and i practically put it in the water and it still reading 40% :( my old analog one reads better.
 
Brittany if you do some googling you'll find just what you're looking for but get something calibrated or something you can calibrate yourself because you'll want to adjust the calibration yearly to be sure it's accurate.
 
Raytek MT4 temp gun - been using it since 2004.

As far as measuring humidity in my incubator, I don't.
 
Thanks everyone. So with what you said Harald about not measuring humidity. If the eggs are nice and plump, no dimpling etc. I am to assume that the humidity is good. If they start to dimple this is a humidity problem?
 
There are a lot of techniques used for incubation...eggs are more durable than a lot of people think (or they wouldn't hatch in the wild); but you CAN screw them up. Personally, I prefer to err on the too dry side.
Aside from that, unless one uses an open box incubating strategy, what difference does it make what the moisture level is inside the incubator? (Actually, it can make a difference; but I'm making a point). Egg containers are individual micro-environments...and, depending on one's set up, it's possible for one keeper to have a fairly wide range of conditions without intending it. Using a single device inside an incubator doesn't give information about what is going on inside any individual container; and, logically, using a probe inside one only tells about that single box. Yes, it gives a ballpark figure for those who have learned to be obsessed with numbers...but, again, (MOST) reptile eggs don't require extreme micromanagement.

"Humidity problem" has bad connotations...makes people think there is something wrong, lol. VPI addressed the topic of humidity many years ago - I'm not sure of the particular species, but I think it may have been carpets - and the crux of the article was that eggs managed to hatch under some pretty inhospitable conditions. If eggs start to dimple, efforts to rehydrate them can have a worse outcome than simply maintaining them or making very slight adjustments.
*I've spent the past 45 minutes looking for something I referenced in an old thread; so I'm going to just post this...I can always add to it later.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post that Harald. Very informational!
 
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