I picked up a boa from a breeder who bred her and then he said she was a problem eater. Any idea what would cause her to become irregular? She is full grown and was a great eater prior. Any suggestions on helping getting her back to eating regularly?
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Problem feeder
- Thread starter chadharper
- Start date
It sounds like your saying she became a problem feeder after being breed & I know you mentioned she was full grown but could you give us more info? Please don't be offended by any of the questions. I'm just asking because sometimes we over look some of the simple things we already know & the answer would give a better idea so others can better suggestions.
-Is she pregnant now, already given birth, when?
-What are her inclosure temps/humidity?
-When was her last meal, how often is she offered food, & is it F/T or live?
-What kind of food, size, & what time of day do you attempt to feed her?
-Did the male come from your own collection or somewhere else & when was she with the male last?
-How old is she, any changes in activity, & when is the last time she shed or is she due?
-Was the breeding done in her own enclosure & if so have there been any changes to it even minor (besides the season change) such as different substrait or even hide.
-Is she pregnant now, already given birth, when?
-What are her inclosure temps/humidity?
-When was her last meal, how often is she offered food, & is it F/T or live?
-What kind of food, size, & what time of day do you attempt to feed her?
-Did the male come from your own collection or somewhere else & when was she with the male last?
-How old is she, any changes in activity, & when is the last time she shed or is she due?
-Was the breeding done in her own enclosure & if so have there been any changes to it even minor (besides the season change) such as different substrait or even hide.
Scooter1685
Newbie Member
The questions Durante has asked do have great significance. My response should certainly be considered secondary to his, but may have a worthwhile suggestion at the end of it.
After breeding, my Ambrosius refused food for a couple months. Between that and the time he was off food for breeding, he had become incredibly thin and ashy looking. I tried offering a prey item roughly 1/3 the size of his regular meals, after something a friend said gave me the idea, and he took that. I fed him on those small prey items for about 2 months. After that I gave an intermediate size roughly 2/3 the size of his regular meals. Did that for about another month and a half. After that he was willing to go back on his regular food.
The questions Chris has asked are far more important in figuring out exactly what is going on with her. The story I have related deals with a male rather than a female, and may or may not be of assistance. Just offering what ideas I have from my limited experience.
Best of luck to you.
After breeding, my Ambrosius refused food for a couple months. Between that and the time he was off food for breeding, he had become incredibly thin and ashy looking. I tried offering a prey item roughly 1/3 the size of his regular meals, after something a friend said gave me the idea, and he took that. I fed him on those small prey items for about 2 months. After that I gave an intermediate size roughly 2/3 the size of his regular meals. Did that for about another month and a half. After that he was willing to go back on his regular food.
The questions Chris has asked are far more important in figuring out exactly what is going on with her. The story I have related deals with a male rather than a female, and may or may not be of assistance. Just offering what ideas I have from my limited experience.
Best of luck to you.
No, last year
86 on the temps. humidity is around 40%
Ive had her two months with her not eating once. Trying weekly
I'm offering stunned small rats in the evening.
No male involved and she bred last year.
shes a 2010 only thing that changed was her living arrangements, which the problem existed prior to my acquiring her.
unknown on the specific details of the breeding.
This boa gave birth at 2.5 years and people are having a hard time figuring out why the animal will not eat?
86 should be the ambient temperature, but what is the hot and cool spot set to?
What kind of enclosure are you keeping her on and what kind of substrate?
Is she passing urates? Has she defecated in your care? What is her body condition like? Photos?
Boas can retain sperm, for just how long is often debated, gravidity or attempted gravidity that results in slugs is not completely out of the question.
Stop trying to feed her every week, it's going to stress her out more. For now, throw a cover over the enclosure and leave her alone for a few weeks except to change water.
86 should be the ambient temperature, but what is the hot and cool spot set to?
What kind of enclosure are you keeping her on and what kind of substrate?
Is she passing urates? Has she defecated in your care? What is her body condition like? Photos?
Boas can retain sperm, for just how long is often debated, gravidity or attempted gravidity that results in slugs is not completely out of the question.
Stop trying to feed her every week, it's going to stress her out more. For now, throw a cover over the enclosure and leave her alone for a few weeks except to change water.
Also, to add, a 2010 female boa is not full grown in 2013.
Varanis
New member
She is a 2010 and bred in 2012!?
What type of boa is she "I.E. is she a Hog Island or similar dwarf or island localitie? Is she a standard Colombian type Ect. Ect." and how big is she?
There are a few who breed at 2 1/2 years but it is really not good for the animal to be bred young and may be part of the issue,
What type of heat are you using for a hot spot and what are the temps there?
Do you have hides on both the warm end and cool end?
What type of enclosure do you have her in?
As stated above environmental changes or discrepancies could be part of the problem as well.
What type of boa is she "I.E. is she a Hog Island or similar dwarf or island localitie? Is she a standard Colombian type Ect. Ect." and how big is she?
There are a few who breed at 2 1/2 years but it is really not good for the animal to be bred young and may be part of the issue,
What type of heat are you using for a hot spot and what are the temps there?
Do you have hides on both the warm end and cool end?
What type of enclosure do you have her in?
As stated above environmental changes or discrepancies could be part of the problem as well.
Varanis
New member
Diem is correct,
Unless grossly power fed a female would not be ready to breed in my opinion until "AT LEAST 4 years old" 5 or more would be better!
"sorry for the double post wouldn't let me edit"
Unless grossly power fed a female would not be ready to breed in my opinion until "AT LEAST 4 years old" 5 or more would be better!
"sorry for the double post wouldn't let me edit"
Sorry Diem, already gave out to much Karma today, I'll have to owe you. From what I'm reading it sounds like it she breed even earlier then 2.5 years. I agree though Diem though, give that poor girl a break. If she is eating small rats, I'm willing to bet she is to small to be bred & honestly I don't care how big she is or if she was power fed, it's was to early for her to be breed maturity wise. Plus you only had her two months so she might not even be fully acclimated to her new enclosure yet. Leave her be a while & as mention don't try to even feed her unless she is in really bad shape & needs it to survive. Do you have any current photos so we can see her?
I know Chris. Timeline would be along the lines of ... bred at about two years - actual courting activity, gravidity and parturition would put her at 2.5 at birth.
A significant factor here is if she slugged out that litter too.
A significant factor here is if she slugged out that litter too.
What are you using for heat?
What are you measuring temps with?
Is it the entire cage, or is she offered a cool spot as a retreat?
Has she been checked for mites?
Any signs of stomatitis?
Have you tried a chick, or scenting with a chick? Birds are like crack for Boas.
Temps on the hot side could also be increased about 10°F without harm.
Boas don't generally refuse food unless they are gravid or sick.
What are you measuring temps with?
Is it the entire cage, or is she offered a cool spot as a retreat?
Has she been checked for mites?
Any signs of stomatitis?
Have you tried a chick, or scenting with a chick? Birds are like crack for Boas.
Temps on the hot side could also be increased about 10°F without harm.
Boas don't generally refuse food unless they are gravid or sick.
The snake is at my ex gf apartment to avoid any issues with my collection, the temp is room temp with overhead heat lamp on the left side.
She is an albino and has no signs of mites. Sani chip bedding.
I have not tried a chick. I will look into getting a chick and Im going to take the previously mentioned advice and give her some down time and then will try again.
I would also recommend getting some flex watt or an ultra therm mat and ditch the over head light. They'll absorb the heat better with belly heat. Being an albino, they are already not going to absorb it as well as a darker snake would.
Thank you I will certainly do that.
I know the darker colors absorb better while the white reflects light but I thought that was proven there were no noticeable difference among snakes of different shades. Maybe the albino part has to do with it, I'll have to read up on it more but I agree with losing the over head light as a heat source. If your able to use a lamp heat source you probably already have a screen top cage & a higher wattage bulb will cause the humidity to drop more.
Interesting info on my experience with this.
My albino female that just gave birth was in a cage set to 90-91 degrees the entire time she was gravid.
Only twice did her body actually temp above 86 degrees. Most people would assume that means the gravidity was going to be complicated, but such was not the case.
Females of comparable size, non-albino and in the same settings often temp at 87-88 for me.
Just an interesting tidbit.