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Is this too small for ball pythons (enclosures for rack)

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I have beating my brain wildly lately over wether or not my current tubs are big enough for my adult ball pythons. So I figured I would ask you guys for some advice or tips on what you think.

Currently using:

Rubbermaid Roughneck tubs 50L 26.5'' L x 16'' W x 13'' T. I believe these measurements as far as the Length and Width are going off the top of the tub because it doesnt look that long and wide at the bottom where the snakes lay. I originally wasnt going to go with the tall ones but my wife likes to see them climb around.

Before I bought these tubs I did some research and it seemed that these measurements where the appropriate size for adult ball pythons, but when you accomidate the water bowl and hide plus the python it looks to me very crammed. Granted research also says that ball pythons like it crammed but is there a limit to that? As far as behavior the adults are all eating (the adult male is picky but will eat if you leave it there and lights off. F/T BTW) but a few of the younger sub-adults and babies will sometimes not eat. Maybe the small space (if it is small) is causing them stress?


I Guess my real question would be, are these tubs big enough for my breeding females. Or should I get bigger ones for the girls over 1500 grams.

I guess you can call me an anxious over stressing herper right now but I want my animals to be stress free. More in all I would just like to make sure I am providing an appropriate sized tub for the adults enclosure.

If needed I can provide pictures when I get home off work.

Thanks All who reply!
 
My big girls are in 41 qt. Sterilite tubs and they still just cram themselves in the back of the tubs...
I think a 32qt is sufficient up to about 1700 grams or so.
 
I have some in the 41qts and some in the 32 and seems like either way is sufficient. I prefer the 41qt ones because seems like they have more room if they decide to use it (which they sometimes do lay in different areas) but the 32's are fine IMO.
 
curious what's the difference between the sterilite and the CB-70's Matt? I have the sterilite but I didn't know what the difference is between the two price is same.
 
curious what's the difference between the sterilite and the CB-70's Matt? I have the sterilite but I didn't know what the difference is between the two price is same.


Dustin, this video that Luke provided will answer your question way better than I can...or at least better than I could, before watching it, myself! lol I've just always called all tubs, of that same size, "CB-70".

As far as smaller tubs being ok because your snake just lies there in a coil, think about a couple of things. Your snake WILL stretch out, and needs to be able to. During the day they do tend to lie in one spot, but at night, they become very active...IF they have room to do so.

Also, the smaller the tub, the harder it will be to give a gradient temp. You want your BP to have a hot spot around 91 degrees, but it also needs to have a cool side at about 80. The shorter tubs will not allow this nearly as easier as a longer one.
 
Thanks guys for the fast responses. I had a feeling my tubs were too small for my adult females. My male seems ok but hes not a monster like my girls.

Now I get to go to wally world or K-mart. Just goint to be fun to see if these bad boys fit on my rack properly. (my rack which I just built is 26'' long so they might hang over a tad bit.)
 
I love the long tubs plus I love the rack design because they slide out SOOO much easier than the 32's. I only have two racks of 32's and I don't plan to get any more. Once I get my shed built I plan on decking it out in a wall of 41 qt racks!
 
I wondered about max size in a 28qt tub some time back so I did some pictures.
I believe 28qt and 32qt have about the same size floor space.

A 1000 gram female
PICT1997.jpg


A 1500 gram female
PICT2001.jpg


A 2000 gram female
PICT2006.jpg


2600 grams
PICT2009.jpg


I keep all of my 1500 gram and above "adults" in 41qt tubs because in smaller tubs the rats tend to run up on top of the snake making the snake freak out and not eat :(

At least with the larger tubs the snake has a little room to hunt :)
 
I hate to tell you this, but my CB-70 tubs are 33 1/2" long.

Yeah, guess a new rack is in the making. I dont believe the lids on those tubs will keep a curious 2000+ female contained.

I will keep this rack for juvees' and small adult males. sad thing is its REALLY nice (its made of steel and lighter than melaminite).

I guess i can do some research for some tubs that size that might have lockable lids. I think a few with wheels too but those are going to be a pain.
 
Locking lid tubs are not escape proof either, you either have to tuck them in between shelves so the shelf above holds the lid down or you have to strap the middle down with a bungee or something.
Trust me, they can escape from locking lid tubs :(
 
Like this...Simple to put together, escape proof, inexpensive and just plain works.
Tubs with lids hold in humidity as good if not better than anything else out there and also hold heat well.
I keep 92 to 95 degree hot spots and the ambient temps stay around 78-80 cool end and 85 to 86 warm end with the room having an ambient temperature of 75.
Just tub, heat tape, paper towels and water bowls, 11 of 13 females bred this season have either dropped eggs or are about to.
melamineshelf.jpg


This was just a throw together but it gives you an idea of what you can do on the cheap.
I needed more spaces for breeding this season and couldn't afford another rack system sooooo:)
 
Like this...Simple to put together, escape proof, inexpensive and just plain works.
Tubs with lids hold in humidity as good if not better than anything else out there and also hold heat well.
I keep 92 to 95 degree hot spots and the ambient temps stay around 78-80 cool end and 85 to 86 warm end with the room having an ambient temperature of 75.
Just tub, heat tape, paper towels and water bowls, 11 of 13 females bred this season have either dropped eggs or are about to.

This was just a throw together but it gives you an idea of what you can do on the cheap.
I needed more spaces for breeding this season and couldn't afford another rack system sooooo:)


Jerry, with your design, you wouldn't have to use the lids, would you (of course changing the measurements ever so slightly)?

Here's another cheap, quick, easy to build rack that utlizes lids. It's really light, too. I just HATE dealing with lids, especially at feeding time. Can't tell you how many times a lid has nearly caused me to get bit!

One thing that I DO like about this design, is that I can use (3) 15 qt tubs on each level, OR (1) 15 qt AND (1) 32 qt, OR a CB-70 (also, with a lid) on each shelf. I left the top open to keep a couple of big tubs of Dubia, also sitting on heat tape. Not including any heating, I don't know if I even spent $100 on materials, And that was upgrading to stronger, better looking woods than the plans called for. Please excuse the couple of tubs with condensation. Today was feeding day so I've still got to go back and clean a few messes that some "excitable-eaters" made! lol
 

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Jerry, with your design, you wouldn't have to use the lids, would you (of course changing the measurements ever so slightly)?
These shelves are 12 inches wide so the lids do need to be on the tubs, but if you built it(instead of buying it) then yeah, with melamine you wouldn't need the lid.
This shelf unit is a $25.00 5 shelf bookshelf converted by nailing the shelves closer together.
Extra shelves came from goodwill for a few bucks :).
 
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