• Posted 12/19/2024.
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    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
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    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Sealing or covering flexwatt

mxracer4life

"Daniel Boone"
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I have seen a lot of forums for hooking up flexwatt or placement, but none on how to cover or seal them. I have this fear of a water bowl getting tipped over and shorting out my system. I have a custoemr built wooden cage, made out of 3/4'' wood, stained and sealed. Right now I have lenolium covering the bottom of the cage, with the flexwatt underneath that. This method has been working but its a pain to remove the lenolium and make any adjustments or repairs to the flexwatt. Can someone give me a few ideas on how to use flexwatt for a wooden cage? I don't have a router, otherwise I would cut out a spot for the flex and cover it with plexiglass. Any ideas would be great! Thanks!

Jeremy
 
On my homemade racks I covered it with the aluminum tape they use on home ductwork. Protected it from sliding tubs and held it in place.
 
But what can I cover it with when the flex is IN the cage with the snake? Will the aluminum tape hold to where they cannot work it free and get tangled with it?
 
Someone gave me the idea of using 1/8'' plexi to cover flex, then sylicone around it. Would I need to drill a couple holes UNDER the flex so it has some circulation under there?
 
easiest way to avoid issue which I am sure you will not like...cut a hole in the floor where you want the flexwatt to be....install a glass or plexi "floor" in the place of the hole...place the flexwatt under the floor window thus allowing heat to pass into the cage AND allowing the flewatt to be safe from water.

You can seal flexwatt with electricians paste...its like liquid electrical tape...but I wouldn't submerge flexwatt in water even if sealed.


What are you housing in your wood cage?
 
Thats not a bad idea. So I take it that just placing the flex on the bottom of the enclosure then covering it with plexi won't work? What if I drilled holes under the flex?
 
totally "encapsuling" the flexwatt would be a fire hazard....

no clue on how venting would work...might or might not.
 
Thats how I am going to do it. Its the best method I think that will be simple and effective.
 
totally "encapsuling" the flexwatt would be a fire hazard....

no clue on how venting would work...might or might not.

Thats how I am going to do it. Its the best method I think that will be simple and effective.

I've covered heat tape with ceramic tiles before with no problems. I used 2' of 11" flexwatt lay the ceramic tiles on top with beads of silicone under the edges. Then put the probe for your thermostat in plastic sandwich bag and place it in between the two tiles. Then run caulk around the edges of the tiles and seal it all together. Worked like a champ. :thumbsup:

heatboa.jpg
 
How about using the two tiles method above, glue the bottom tile down, put a tile spacer in between the two tiles and cutting a slot in the back of the rack to slide the heat tape in. The slot would ventilate the the flexwatt. Silicone or use a bull nose tile edge around the whole thing.
 
How about using the two tiles method above, glue the bottom tile down, put a tile spacer in between the two tiles and cutting a slot in the back of the rack to slide the heat tape in. The slot would ventilate the the flexwatt. Silicone or use a bull nose tile edge around the whole thing.

if you are venting it, then you are venting it...
 
Ask Triplemoon if she has pictures of her flexwatt near miss.

O, I have some beautiful pictures of what can happen with Flexwatt and wood...Never again!

cageburn-1.jpg


cageburn-2.jpg


It should be noted that the problem happened 4-6 years (I think more in the 5-6 range because they were built before I bought my house) after the cages were built and in use, their was nothing wrong with the wiring (no bumping/dislodging) and the thermostat was a Helix (and is still in use because there's nothing wrong with it). Cypress mulch was used as a substrate if that matters at all. Their were 3 cages, 2 did this. The FlexWatt was purchased at the same time from the same place and had about 1/4" to breath. Never figure out what happened. :shrug01:
 
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