• Posted 12/19/2024.
    =====================

    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Help! Im new to hognoses and my female hasn't eaten in going on 3 months!

Saphire4260 said:
About a month
Click to expand...

I asked because snakes that are trying to heal (recover) from something (injury etc) often shed more frequently, & a previous post implied she was shedding unusually often. It's just something to keep in mind as a symptom, it won't tell you specifically what the issue is.

You also mentioned she likes to soak in the water...which is also often (but not always) a symptom of a snake that has mites. (I think you'd have seen them on her though? Tiny dark black or reddish specks...) The soaking might also be an indication that she is too warm...especially if you're using an overhead light on a small enclosure. Have you switched to (regulated) UTH yet? Snakes need temperature options in their cages...they need to be able to choose & move between warmer & cooler temperatures as they would in the wild to regulate their body functions. Is she able to do that?
Snakes can't talk so we have to interpret what their behavior is telling us.
 
Ive only seen one shed from her in the time ive had her I had just been surprised to see ot at the time because she hadnt been eating. She does like to soak but I havent seen any mites, I gave her a pretty good look over when I bought her as well as whenever I take her out. The vet also looked her over and didnt notice any so if their there, their cant be many.

I do have a under tank heater and I have removed the heat lamp as of 3 weeks ago. She should be able to thermo regulate but I can try and make it easier for her to do so. Honestly other then the non eating she seems to act completely normal for what i would expect anyway which is why I am so confused. Do you think I should put slightly cooler water (only a little still close to room temp) in so if she does soak to cool down she can do so more efficiently? Alot of people ive talked to seem to suggest moving her back to the small 7 quart tub so Ive done that but I still have a under tank heater with the hot spots at 85ish. Its harder to make a temp gradient with these but ive been trying to keep the average temp in the bin around 80-85. Do you think thats okay? I still have 2 hides one on either side and a bowl she can soak in.
 
I realize that tubs work great for many breeders, but it's hard to observe what's going on with a snake without being invasive (causing them stress). I'd stick with the cage she was in- every time you move a snake to a new cage, it can set them back, just as handling them can (until they are feeding regularly & easily). But maybe re-think the substrate & hides to offer a better sense of security. Substrate snakes can burrow into (like Carefresh, or even manually-shredded & "fluffed" paper towels or other clean paper) might help. You might try using substrate that is about 2" deep so she can actually tunnel. (still use "hides" though)

Water temperature: not an issue, IMO. Use cold tap water only, as hot water has contaminants from the hot water tank; it will soon reach the ambient cage temperature anyway.

She might not feel "secure" with the hides you've provided: aesthetics aren't important to the snake...feeling "secure" is. Most snakes prefer (& may NEED) hiding places that they can just squeeze into, hides that offer "back pressure" (they don't like big dramatic doorways or high ceilings...they don't read "House Beautiful", lol) and you might try offering things like the cardboard tube from paper towels with one end plugged, or any other small safe container that meets the requirements. Cardboard cannot be cleaned & must be tossed when dirty, which can be both a plus (easy) or a negative (keep an eye out for & save replacements). I like using small cardboard hides for small or baby snakes...you can modify easily & cheaply.

Handling: "...whenever I take her out..." this could very well BE the problem. Never handle a snake that isn't feeding, until it's feeding regularly & easily at least 3 consecutive times for "best results".

Mites: very hard to see, but much easier on light colored snakes. No such thing as "only a few" though: they multiply exponentially & can kill even bigger snakes from dehydration & blood loss. Vets don't have time to look everywhere...many of us use white paper towels with new snakes to help see any problems, and you should always check the water bowl closely when you see a snake soaking, as that's how they often response to the irritation & dehydration from mites. When you change the water, try running it thru a coffee filter to look for mites.

Heat: a warm area of 85-87* is needed for digestion, but keeping the whole cage at 80*+ sounds too high (no place to get away from heat*). In addition, if the "average" temperature is 85* that's telling me it's higher in places*? The smaller the cage (or tub), the harder it is to offer proper thermal gradients. While new & young snakes may need the greater sense of security, that can be remedied with substrate, hides, and even covering the cage or most sides of it so they don't see you hovering. Another thing that makes some snakes "nervous" is if they feel bass notes (vibrations) from music, tv & other human activity like doors closing. Consider that for the location of the cage...quiet location needed for this one.
 
Hognose eat amphibians and reptiles in the wild (like toxic toads and such). Maybe there is a toad/frog sent you can put on it?

PS I don't own a hognose yet and I don't know if this would work. Just something I've heard along my way of research.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top