• Posted 12/19/2024.
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    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
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    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

The Case of the Perpetually Picky Papuan Python

R

Rakshasanyc

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At the last White Plains show (11/26) I picked up Kierkegaard, a hatchling Papuan Python (A. Papuana). He has yet to eat. If tease-fed, he will engage in some defensive strikes and has even thrown coils a couple times -- but he won't swallow the ferschlugginer thing. If the f/t item is left in his cage, he will push it around the cage and play with it but won't swallow. And when I tried a live African pygmy frog (as per the request of someone who suggested trying frogs or lizards), he seemed completely uninterested.

The people who sold him to me (Regal Reptiles in Providence, RI) bought him from Bushmaster in Jakarta: they have no idea of his history before arriving with them, nor did they ever try feeding him themselves. Hence, I have no clear idea of his exact age, or if he has ever eaten since coming out of the egg. And, alas, there's next to no information on caring for hatchling Papuan Pythons, since they've rarely been bred in captivity.

He appears active and alert: his skin is not wrinkled or sagging and, while I'd like to see him put on some weight, he doesn't look emaciated. I'm taking him to the vet in January (our herp vet is presently on vacation until the 8th). In the meantime any pointers Yon Peanut Gallery may have would be greatly appreciated.
 
Kevin - there are lots of things to try (some simple, some not quite so)...I was going to have you call or email me, but we might as well do it here for all to enjoy. I'm on my out for the morning - but I'll throw out some suggestions when I get home
 
slight delay in my plans, so I'll start now (probably won't have time to get everything down though).
- Apodora are known to include snakes and lizards in their diet...I would guess that young skinks would be a common natural prey item for hatchlings. Not exactly the easiest way to get your little one started, but something to consider if nothing else works.
- some hatchling pythons tend to be jittery and easily disturbed at feeding time. Try tease or tap techniques to initiate a strike. When the prey item is constricted - STOP. Don't walk away, don't cover the enclosure, heck, be slow and careful about putting your arm down. It'll probably mean standing there for 20 minutes - you'll get good at it, lol, and eventually it will get easier.
- check your temps and humidity. I haven't worked with Apadora sp, but many of the pythons from that area do well at lower (than traditional) temps. With a hatchling, I would lean toward a smaller enclosure, with a necessarily tighter temp gradient. Don't be afraid to try some different ranges - but you don't want to constantly have the temps going up and down. Obviously, minimize handling until he is feeding regularly.
- have you tried live? a crawler or hopper mouse left in when all is still a great stimulant for babies

There's my cue - time to leave...drop me a line, letting me know how you make out. If he doesn't start up, I'd be willing to try getting him going for you (if you want).
Good luck
 
Picky Papuan

Don't take my comments as offensive, I'm only here to help....

"And when I tried a live African pygmy frog (as per the request of someone who suggested trying frogs or lizards), he seemed completely uninterested."

PLEASE refrain from frogs/lizards until EVERYTHING else has been tried.

My advice:
The sibling to your male, (his sister) was purchased by my good friend Danny Schafer, and with some minor teasing, she ate a fuzzy mouse within a few tries. Your animal was hatched approx. Nov '06 in Jakarta, and it's not uncommom for babies to take some time to "kick in".
You should have minimal interaction with the animal until she eats, and make sure your husbandry conditions are appropriate. Your intentions are good, but my guess is that you "messing" (for lack of a better word) with your girl too much, and trying too many food items. Leave her alone, and try a live rat pinky from tongs. If not succesful, leave it in overnight.


Again, my intentions are to help you, (and your girl) so feel free to call me for additional support. Lastly, frogs/lizards should never be offered to any boid species. Scenting perhaps, (chick down would be far more effective however) but never a whole frog/lizard.

I'm here if you need me...
Gary Schiavino
(732)310-8573
 
Gary, Harald: thanks so much for the helpful pointers. Don't worry about hurting my feelings. Right now my concern is for the snake's well-being, not my ego. If I'm screwing up with my husbandry, I want to fix whatever is wrong.

At present I've got him in an stackable drawer tub (15-3/4" x 19-3/4" x 8-1/8") in our computer/quarantine room. There are one or two paper towel tubes for hides, a water dish (in which he swims occasionally), and a paper towel substrate. The tub is heated by an Exo-Terra undertank heater and has an 82-83/86-88 gradient. To provide him with privacy, his home is typically covered with blue silk sari fabric. This is somewhat translucent and allows us to watch him in motion while sheltering him from distractions.

I've got a couple of live mouse fuzzies on reserve at my nearest pet store (they are the closest thing I could get to a live rat pinky). I'll pick them up tomorrow and see if that will work. I was just taken a bit aback by this: since my first snake was a Burm, I really haven't had a lot of experience with picky eaters.
 
Kevin, your temps seem OK but if it were me I'd have the warm side at 84 to 86 and the cool side closer to room temp. low to mid 70s that way he has a real choice of what is comfortable. Try him with the live fuzzy, just make sure you have the tub where you can peek in without disturbing him. By the way it's not unusual for babies to go without feeding for a while.. I have a baby Chondro that hatched 11-9 and it finally ate it's first meal last Sunday and I've had them take longer than that. So don't worry to much yet. Randy
 
I love apadura's. My sisters got one out in berkley. i didn't know any one has successfully got them to breed in the usa. My sisters was a bit finacky feeding for the first three months but now they hold one on tongs in the cage that it will stike almost immediatly and the second the'll just drop in and it will get it later.

Papuans are very definsive of there terrarium. have you tried feeding it in its home? might be a good idea?

Warning: we do have to let teh snake come out of its cage by itsself. if anyone reaches in she'll attack. Calm once out though
 
ravensgait said:
Kevin, your temps seem OK but if it were me I'd have the warm side at 84 to 86 and the cool side closer to room temp. low to mid 70s that way he has a real choice of what is comfortable. Try him with the live fuzzy, just make sure you have the tub where you can peek in without disturbing him. By the way it's not unusual for babies to go without feeding for a while.. I have a baby Chondro that hatched 11-9 and it finally ate it's first meal last Sunday and I've had them take longer than that. So don't worry to much yet. Randy
Click to expand...

Tried a live rat fuzzy: awoke this morning to find a dead rat fuzzy in Kierkegaard's tub, with Kierkegaard coiled around it. He doesn't seem to have any interest in eating it right now, but at least we're making baby steps

Edit: Kierkegaard has now eaten his first rat fuzzy!!!!!! :dancer01:
 
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